You love furniture upcycling. Your furniture piece has wood and natural stone/marble. You want to update the wood AND the stone. This post is for you.
This is our humble $50 table purchase from Facebook Marketplace. (Sorry, I failed to take a true “before” photo.) It’s shown here with my blue painter’s tape. And I had sanded the top.
It looked like someone had merged 2 pieces of furniture. The base was a totally different color from the top.
However, we needed a round table for our game room project. And this one was the perfect size. But look at all that brown ☹. Thankfully, I love a good furniture upcycling challenge!
Furniture Upcycling: Preparing the Wood (Taping and Sanding)
Even though I knew I would be upcycling the brown marble; I taped off the marble. So it wouldn’t get damaged while I was sanding the top edge of the table.
The top used to be the same color you see on the apron of the table.
Furniture Upcycling: Removing Unnecessary Pieces
For most people, this step (that I am about to describe) would probably come first. But that’s not how I roll. I’m a chronic DIY-er. I often start a project and figure things out as I go. Can I get an “Amen”!
Here’s what I figured out during this furniture upcycling project. I didn’t have the right sanding tool to do a good job on that apron.
Then I started to really look at the apron. It’s a bit outdated, I thought. This table would look more up-to-date if I simply removed the apron. So, I used a small pry bar and it came off easily without damaging the top.
Furniture Upcycling: Refinishing the Wood
I’m not a fan of painting over REAL wood (although I will if I must 😊). But in this case, the table base was already painted awful dark brown. And since it is a table base, it won’t really be seen all that much. So, I decided not to go to the trouble of sanding and exposing the wood. Instead, I painted over it with my FAVORITE shimmer.
This color is called Warm Silver, but it looks like a beautiful champagne or the perfect platinum color. I use it on many of my furniture upcycling projects. I also used it here on these DIY updated chair bases.
Now with the brown wood all gone. I used a shimmer “paint wash” so I could “stain” the wood grain on the tabletop.
But before you assume I made my paint wash with water; I mixed equal parts of shimmer paint with satin finish sealer. The first reason: I already had some mixed up from a previous project (best reason of all). Second reason: it glides on smoothly without the splotchiness you sometimes get from paint mixed with water.
This paint wash gives the wood a soft subtle shimmer while allowing the wood grain to still come through.
Furniture Upcycling: Changing Focus to the Marble Insert (Choosing Metallic Foil)
The brown marble is inset and flush with the round, wood frame. I like this two-tone feature because it feels like old “Vegas” to me. Perfect for our game room. But that brown had to go.
I considered two options. Epoxy Resin versus Metallic Foil.
Besides being apprehensive about working with Epoxy Resin for the first time. If I used Epoxy, it would end up covering up the wood grain. So I eventually opted for Metallic Foil.
Then my next challenge was finding a color/pattern that would work in the room. I had already used Stonewash Gold foil to update the color of the shuffleboard. Here it is below, I just love it.
Then I spotted Moscato Marble foil on the APS website. Despite it being called “metallic foil” it does not have a metallic finish. It looks like warm, creamy marble.
Not only would I get to keep the look of a marble insert. But the creamy tones would blend seamlessly with the overall neutral vibe of our game room. I decided Moscato Marble foil would be Perfect!
Metallic Foil Patterns Can Be Tricky
I had just recently updated two different natural stone vanity countertops with metallic foil. And they were a success! So I was feeling pretty confident. You can see those transformations here.
In the next section, I’ll show you where to learn the details about working with metallic foil and where to purchase it.
And following that, I am providing the crucial steps for using metallic foil on natural stone. But let me insert some thoughts here on choosing a pattern.
These rolls of metallic foil are NOT like working with the pattern repeat you find on wallpaper. So patterns are a bit trickier. Ultimately, you’ll want something where the pattern will easily “blend” on a large surface. Then you can “fake a repeat”. Mottled patterns blend well.
And some of these foils are available in 24” widths. Wide rolls are much better for larger applications.
In the case of Moscato Marble foil, it has a few darker veins but because the background is predominantly neutral it’s a forgiving pattern.
Where to Learn About Working with Metallic Foil and Where to Purchase Metallic Foil
I learned all about working with metallic foil by watching tutorials from Jennifer Ferguson at Artistic Painting Studio. She makes all sorts of fun, interesting projects with foils (and other mediums) while offering many in-depth tutorials on her YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/@ArtisticPaintingStudio
Make sure to subscribe to her YouTube channel and emails to stay informed about new ideas and new foils as they become available.
Speaking of new foils, their selection of metallic foils is unmatched and ever growing on their website. https://shop.artisticpaintingstudio.com/pages/metallic-foils
They also carry all the other supplies you’ll need to get started.
Step by Step Utilizing Metallic Foil to Create the Look of Marble
These are the steps I followed. I will go more in depth about each step in the next section.
- Scuff sanded the natural stone using 60 grit. Cleaned and wiped thoroughly with a damp microfiber cloth
- Applied 2 thin coats of TINTED, bonding primer (I let the primer dry about an hour between coats)
- Applied foil adhesive (let dry overnight)
- Applied the metallic foil
- Did touchups
- Protected the new surface with 3 coats of GOOD quality sealer. (I let the sealer dry about an hour between coats)
1. Scuff Sanding Natural Stone Prior to Applying Metallic Foil
This time I taped the wood instead of taping the marble. Then I used a 60-grit sanding pad with my cordless sander.
You are NOT trying to grind deep into the stone. The goal is to simply knock off the slick topcoat/shine. You want to create a surface that the primer can grip to more easily.
2. TINTED Bonding Primer
You cannot skip this step. You will NEED a bonding primer so the foil adhesive has something to grip to.
I chose Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 because it’s water-based, has great adhesion and its TINTABLE! Tinting your primer is VERY IMPORTANT because these foils can be a bit transparent. Trust, it will be much easier if the primer is tinted to a color that compliments your foil choice.
In the photo below, I used the same tinted primer that I used on the bathroom vanity countertops. If I had it to do again, I would have used a creamy beige primer coat.
“Thin to Win” is easy to remember when priming. I used a 2” paintbrush to apply the primer. Then a foam roller to smooth out the brush marks. I waited an hour then applied a second coat of tinted primer.
3. Use Foil Adhesive That is Specifically Meant for Metallic Foil
Jennifer’s website sells ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive https://shop.artisticpaintingstudio.com/products/foil-adhesive. I have no idea what’s in it but trust, it’s worth every penny.
I tried using Elmer’s glue – it didn’t work. Mod Podge didn’t work either because when it dries – the foil won’t stick to it. Whatever is in ArtsSyVille, allows it to remain “tacky” for an indefinite period.
It will feel “tacky” until you cover it with foil or something else. This is great if for some reason you get pulled away from your project before it’s complete. But don’t wait too many days because it can also attract dust.
This adhesive will not “self-level”. Which means it will show brush strokes. To minimize brush strokes, ONLY apply a thin layer with a paintbrush and use a foam roller to even out the brush strokes.
You HAVE TO let the adhesive dry before you can apply the foil. Usually, a minimum of one hour. You’ll know it’s dry because it will no longer be milky-colored and it will feel “tacky”. A thin layer will dry much quicker than a thicker layer.
And the longer you let it dry, the BETTER! I let my table dry overnight with the adhesive before applying the foil.
4.(a) Applying Metallic Foil to the Adhesive Layer
Hopefully, you’ve already watched some of Jennifer’s tutorials. You will be amazed at how simple this process is. (But simple is not always easy.)
The foil wants to IMMEDIATELY stick to the adhesive. Actually, EVERYTHING wants to stick to the adhesive. It is VERY TACKY. (You’ll know what I mean soon enough. 😊) But try to ONLY let the matte/non shiny foil side touch your adhesive.
And try to prevent the carrier sheet from rolling back up. Because this causes the wrong side of the carrier sheet to stick to your adhesive. Which can lift the adhesive right off your project.
Once the correct foil side comes in contact with the adhesive, use a small nylon nail brush to rub/scrub the top side of the carrier sheet. This process magically transfers the foil from the carrier sheet to your project.
4.(b) Applying Metallic Foil to the Adhesive Layer (Pitfalls to Avoid on Larger Projects!)
Since I work alone, I can usually prevent the sheet from rolling up on itself, if I use smaller, more manageable pieces.
This trick worked great when I was working with the Stonewash Gold foil for the vanity countertops that I mentioned above. Stonewash Gold has a mottled pattern and is very forgiving for blending on a large surface.
However, each of the foil colors/patterns can have their own “personality”. I ran into trouble with Moscato Marble foil. After application of several small pieces of foil, I was able to see “marks” on the surface. Below, I’ve circled some of the marks in blue.
Moscato Marble foil (which is what I used on this table) does blend pretty well because of the predominant neutral pattern in the background. Yet, these marks happened because I cut my pieces too small.
These marks were basically caused by me lifting small pieces of the carrier sheet off the surface of the table.
As a test, I reapplied more adhesive, let it dry and placed another larger layer of foil over the marks. It worked beautifully. But my original measurements did not account for a second layer of foil. So I had to stop and order more foil ☹.
I used much larger pieces on the second go round which was better for working with Moscato Marble foil. But using larger pieces can create lines of demarcation. Below, I’ve circled one of the demarcation lines in blue.
To help with lines of demarcation, please see the next section for doing touchups.
5. Doing Touchups with Metallic Foil
The more I work with metallic foil, the less touchups I’ve had to do. But I always do touchups if there’s a harsh line of demarcation between foil pieces.
I diffuse these harsh lines by reapplying adhesive over the line. But I reapply the adhesive more randomly. Like a zig-zag pattern. Then I use pieces of foil that I have cut with more random edges instead of straight cut lines.
If the foil pattern you’ve chosen is forgiving, touch ups will not be an issue. The new layer of foil seems to melt right into the previous layers. However, some patterns might be more challenging.
Here it is again with the demarcation line diffused.
BUT please learn from my mistakes! For touchups, it’s ok to use your small scraps of unused foil. However, if some of that scrap also includes the used-up carrier sheet, the used-up carrier sheet will stick to your adhesive. Which can very easily lift the adhesive right off your project. Then you have to do another touchup. Argh!
Below is an example of what NOT to use.
Use scissors to trim off the used-up parts from your scraps. Then apply your foil scraps. Here’s an example of what you can use 🙂
6. Protecting Your Metallic Foil Surface with a Good Sealer
If you don’t seal your project, you run the risk of damaging the finish. A good sealer will protect the finish from scratching and help prevent water rings if you’re foiling a table. But be sure to apply at least 3 coats.
You can opt for a clear sealant. I chose Modern Masters MasterClear Supreme satin finish. But you can also tint your sealer if you’re looking for a warmer or cooler tone.
This upcycled table now works well in our neutral game room.
Materials Used
2” Blue painter’s tape
2” Purdy paintbrush
Foam roller
Microfiber cloth
Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Bonding Primer (TINTED to coordinate)
Metallic foil (so many choices)
Modern Masters MasterClear Supreme top coat (satin finish)
Tools Used
Scissors
Metabo Cordless 5-Inch Random Orbit Sander
Take Away
The look of marble utilizing metallic foil is just one of the many colors and patterns available. Consider where other metallic foils could take your next furniture upcycling project.
Here’s to FANTASTIC foils and Making it Fabulous!
Other Helpful Links
Find: Metallic Foils and Supplies
Learn: YouTube tutorials by Jennifer Ferguson of Artistic Paining Studio.com
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Feeling Motivated? Find Even More Inspiration for Working with Metallic Foil
Check out this post for Boot Upcycling with Metallic Foil
And if you’re feeling more adventurous, check out this post for using metallic foil on a DIY lighted sign
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