This Post is About EASILY Doing Updates with Metallic Foil for Bathroom Counters; Benches and More
In the photo above, can you guess where the metallic foil is? For less than $10, I was able to go bold with these bench LEGS. Aren’t they fabulous? This foil is called Magnolia Flowers (although I don’t see any magnolias, lol).
But we’re not stopping there! If you’re looking for an inexpensive, quick alternative for your outdated marble bathroom vanity countertops – keep reading. Updates with Metallic Foil are a viable solution.
And PLEASE NOTE this is NOT the same as “gold leafing”. This process is much easier because it involves a “carrier sheet” for the foil. There are dozens and dozens of colors and patterns available. And they are not all metallic 😊
Can You Apply Metallic Foil on a Large Surface – Like Bathroom Counters? YES it Works!
We have (2) bathroom vanity countertops that are not very old. We purchased both as part of our big home remodel in 2012 (Yes that was 12 yrs ago – as of this writing – but to me, that’s not that long ago, lol.)
I still very much like the old-world styling of these cabinets. So, I considered what EXACTLY was making these pieces feel outdated to me. It was the brown marble counter tops.
And I was finally going to do something to update these vanity tops!
Considering my Options
There are any number of options for resurfacing countertops. But I had to also consider durability since bathrooms are “wet” areas. The options I considered, for updating these bathroom vanities, were
- Replacement of the current counters with updated marble
- Resurfacing the existing marble with tile
- Resurfacing the existing marble with exotic epoxy resin
- Resurfacing the existing marble with metallic foil
It was going to cost more to replace the counters than it would cost to replace the vanities themselves.
Resurfacing with tile just seemed to hit the wrong note for me.
I have no experience with epoxy resin so I’m still apprehensive about working with epoxy resin.
Lastly, I already had a positive experience with metallic foil when I resurfaced this shuffleboard (shown below). It was originally a mahogany color. And although mahogany is beautiful. It did not go with the neutral vibe in our game room.
This metallic foil is called Stonewash Gold.
Updates with Metallic Foil Was an Easy Choice for Me
After some deliberation. I chose to go with metallic foil for ease of use, quick turnaround, and it was the most economical of the options I was considering.
And I was able to use the foil leftover from the shuffleboard project. (I love when that happens 😊)
Where To Learn About Working with Metallic Foil and Where to Purchase Metallic Foil
I learned all about making beautiful updates with metallic foil by watching tutorials from Jennifer Ferguson at Artistic Painting Studio. She makes all sorts of fun, interesting projects with foils (and other mediums) while offering many in-depth tutorials on her YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/@ArtisticPaintingStudio
Make sure to subscribe to her YouTube channel and emails to stay informed about new ideas and new foils as they become available.
Speaking of new foils, their selection of metallic foils is unmatched and ever growing on their website. https://shop.artisticpaintingstudio.com/pages/metallic-foils
They also carry all the other supplies you’ll need to get started.
Choosing Your Metallic Foil Pattern (or Lack Thereof)
I ordered several sample pieces of metallic foil before I ever ordered a large quantity. And I applied the samples to practice pieces of cardboard. I’m so glad I did. Because some of the patterns were too “shiny” for my taste. But I couldn’t tell that from just looking at the carrier sheet.
Practice boards are also a great way to get a feel for this process.
Additionally, for large projects, like a bathroom vanity, try to choose a foil that does not have heavy lines or curves. I say this because this is not like working with wallpaper. Finding pattern matches will be difficult.
However, if you feel you must choose a foil with lines or curves (the Golden Dragon foils are STUNNING), be mindful of the width of the roll and how you will achieve acceptable pattern matches.
For most of my projects I chose Stonewash Gold because I LOVE soft gold. It comes in 24” wide rolls (yay!) And the mottled, elegant pattern is very forgiving for a large surface area. You can’t tell where one piece ends, and another piece starts.
Ultimately, you’ll want something where the pattern will easily “blend” on a large surface.
Step by Step to Achieve Beautiful Updates with Metallic Foil
First let me say, this process is SUPER EASY. The payoff for the amount of effort is exponential. I promise!
These are the steps I followed. I will go more in depth about each step in the next section.
- Scuff sanded the marble using 60 grit. Cleaned and wiped thoroughly with a damp microfiber cloth
- Applied 2 thin coats of TINTED, bonding primer (I let the primer dry about an hour between coats)
- Applied foil adhesive (let dry overnight)
- Applied the metallic foil
- Did touchups
- Protected the new surfaces with 2-3 coats of GOOD quality sealer for wet areas (I let the sealer dry about an hour between coats and used a 220 grit sanding sponge between coats)
1. Scuff Sanding Marble Prior to Applying Metallic Foil
I used a 60-grit sanding pad with my cordless sander.
You are NOT trying to grind deep into the marble. The goal is to simply knock off the slick topcoat/shine. You want to create a surface that the primer can grip to more easily.
2. TINTED Bonding Primer Is Very Helpful for Easier Beautiful Updates with Metallic Foil
If you are foiling marble, you will NEED a bonding primer so the foil adhesive has something to grip to.
I chose Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 because it’s water-based, has great adhesion and its TINTABLE! Tinting your primer is VERY IMPORTANT! Why? you ask.
While it is possible to get solid coverage with metallic foil. You won’t be able to do it in one pass because the process allows for small cracks. This is a close-up of my first project – our shuffleboard. I did not prime it. So you can see some of the original mahogany color coming through the foil.
I also applied metallic foil to this small trashcan. I did not use a primer. You can see the original brown color coming through 🙁
Here it is again after a second application of Stonewash Gold foil. Much better!
However, if you don’t want to do several applications of foil, then have your primer tinted in a color that compliments your metallic foil. In the photo below, you can see I chose a gold-colored tint for my primer. This is the first coat.
“Thin to Win” is easy to remember when priming. I used a 2” paintbrush to apply the primer. Then a foam roller to smooth out the brush marks. I also used a small artist brush to apply primer around the faucet. (You could remove the faucet to make it easier but that was too much trouble, lol) I waited an hour then applied a second coat of tinted primer.
3. Use Foil Adhesive That is Specifically Meant for Metallic Foil
Jennifer’s website sells ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive https://shop.artisticpaintingstudio.com/products/foil-adhesive. I have no idea what’s in it but trust, it’s worth every penny.
I tried using Elmer’s glue – it didn’t work. Mod Podge didn’t work either because when it dries – the foil won’t stick to it. Whatever is in ArtsSyVille, allows it to remain “tacky” for an indefinite period.
It will feel “tacky” until you cover it with foil or something else. This is great if for some reason you get pulled away from your project before it’s complete. But don’t wait too many days because it can also attract dust.
Jennifer recommends transferring some adhesive from the original container onto a working surface – like a foam plate. That way you can make your original adhesive “source” last longer without drying out. I have transferred some adhesive to a smaller plastic container and just work from this container which has a lid.
This adhesive will not “self-level”. Which means it will show brush strokes. To minimize brush strokes, ONLY apply a thin layer and use a foam roller to even out the brush strokes.
You HAVE TO let the adhesive dry before you can apply the foil. Usually, a minimum of one hour. You’ll know it’s dry because it will no longer be milky-colored and it will feel “tacky”. A thin layer will dry much quicker than a thicker layer.
And the longer you let it dry, the better. I let my counters dry overnight with the adhesive before applying the foil.
4. Applying Metallic Foil to the Adhesive Layer
Hopefully, you’ve already watched some of Jennifer’s tutorials. You will be amazed at how simple this process is. BUT I want to help you avoid some of the pitfalls 😊
I did mine alone. For this reason, I cut my foil into smaller, more manageable pieces. And the color I chose: Stonewash Gold, is very forgiving for blending pieces.
You’ll find the foil wants to IMMEDIATELY stick to the adhesive. Actually, EVERYTHING wants to stick to the adhesive. (You’ll know what I mean soon enough. 😊) Try to avoid letting the carrier sheet roll back up. This causes the wrong side of the carrier sheet to stick to your adhesive. Which can cause your adhesive to lift off.
I crumpled my cut sheets before applying them to the adhesive. This does two things. It helps the sheet to behave a little better and stop rolling up. Plus it provides a bit more character with extra little “cracks” in the pattern.
For me, it was better to work front to back. That way I didn’t lean into the adhesive on the front edge of the counter. (Once the foil is “transferred” to the adhesive, you can touch it or lean on it without problems.)
You can’t really see it, but I have a small nylon nail brush in my hand. That’s really all you need in order to transfer the foil to your project. And for tight spaces (like the faucet area) an old toothbrush works great.
5. Doing Touchups with Metallic Foil
I’m still new with this process. I have had to do my fair share of “touchups”. Usually, I need a touchup when I find that I have missed an area with adhesive. Or I might need a touchup if the carrier sheet has rolled up on itself and pulled up my adhesive.
I also do touchups when there is a harsh line of demarcation between foil pieces. I like to diffuse the really noticeable lines.
The adhesive goes on a bit milky but if you have it thin enough, it dries fast (which is a good thing). And if you have good lighting, you’ll be able to see the shine from the dried adhesive. But when you have a large project, you can’t tilt your project toward the light. So it’s sometimes hard to see where you’ve applied the adhesive.
If your foil pattern is forgiving, touch ups will not be an issue. You simply put a thin layer of adhesive over the part you need to touch up. Wait for it to dry, then apply more foil. The foils seem to melt right into the previous layers.
For touchups, I like to use up all the little scraps of unused foil. But something I learned through trial and error. If some of that scrap has part of the plastic carrier sheet WITHOUT the foil, that plastic sheet will stick to your adhesive. Which can very easily lift off the adhesive. Then you have to do another touchup. Argh!
How to avoid this! Use regular scissors to cut off the used-up parts from your scraps. Then apply your foil scraps 🙂
6. Protecting Your Metallic Foil Surface with a Good Sealer
If you don’t seal your countertop, you run the risk of damaging the finish. A good sealer will not only protect the finish from scratching. A good sealer will allow your bathroom vanity counter to become water repellant. But be sure to apply 2-3 coats.
You can opt for a clear sealant. I chose Modern Masters MasterClear Supreme satin finish. But you can also tint your sealer. Which is what I did for one of our bathroom vanity counters.
For the larger vanity, I didn’t want such a warm color. So I tinted the sealer with pearlescent paint. (Ratio: one to one). This allowed me to tone down the warmth of the foil color. In this photo you can see the difference side by side. It almost looks silvery.
Here are the finished bathroom vanity countertops!
Other Great Uses for Metallic Foil
This DIY sign was made more fabulous when I used Metallic Foil on the plain silver metal. This is Stonewash Gold foil. (Link below if you want to know how to do this sign :))
This plastic trashcan used to be grey. Why not transform it? I already had extra foil. This is Stonewash Gold foil.
Materials Used
Artist paintbrush (for small spaces)
2” Purdy paintbrush
Foam roller
Old toothbrush (for small spaces)
Microfiber cloth
Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Bonding Primer (TINTED to coordinate)
Metallic foil (so many choices)
Modern Masters MasterClear Supreme top coat (satin finish)
Rustoleum Metallic Accents (Sea Shell)
Tools Used
Scissors
Metabo Cordless 5-Inch Random Orbit Sander
Take Away
Great, updating results do not have to be time-consuming or expensive. Metallic foils are easy to use and reasonably priced. However, they do have to be applied correctly and protected if you want your new surface to last.
Metallic foils can be elegant and tame or wild and loud. Let your imagination guide you to your next beautiful update.
Here’s to FUN foils and Making it Fabulous!
Other Helpful Links
Find: Metallic Foils and Supplies
Learn: YouTube tutorials by Jennifer Ferguson of Artistic Paining Studio.com
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Feeling Motivated? Find Even More Inspiration for Working with Metallic Foil
Check out this post for Boot Upcycling with Metallic Foil
And if you’re feeling more adventurous, check out this post for using metallic foil on a DIY lighted sign
You might also be inspired from other posts in my DIY category